Showing posts with label Audrey's writing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Audrey's writing. Show all posts

Writers Talk with Audrey Bilger

I'm very happy to introduce today's Writers Talk participant, Audrey Bilger.  Audrey is a good friend & a staunch supporter of Robert Frost's Banjo.  In fact, she's written a number of popular posts for this blog, with subject matter ranging from esoteric points of 18th century literature to up & coming rock bands.  Which makes sense: Audrey is an English literature professor who has also been a drummer in a blues band!

Audrey—Dr Bilger in point of fact—obtained her PhD in literature from the University of Virginia, & is an Associate Professor of Literature, as well as Faculty Director of the Writing Center at Claremont-McKenna College.  She has an impressive list of publications, including Laughing Feminism: Subversive Comedy in Frances Burney, Maria Edgeworth, and Jane Austen (Wayne State University Press, 1998); articles in The Paris Review, BITCH: FEMINIST RESPONSE TO POPULAR CULTURE, ROCKGRL & in various Women's Studies journals, as well as upcoming articles in the print version of Ms. magazine.  Audrey also is a regular contributor to the Ms. blog.

You can read one of Audrey's essays on the Writers Talk blog; I'd also recommend searching the "Audrey's Writing" label on this blog to see even more of her work.  & so—here's Audrey!

When did you first realize your identity as a writer?

For as long as I can remember, I’ve been in love with the written word. I stayed up late into the night when I was 6, 7, and 8, reading everything I could get my hands on. Black Beauty, Little Women, The Lion, the Witch, and the Wardrobe, A Wrinkle in Time. Books were a means of escape, gateways to alternative universes where I was always at the center of the action.

My first creative works were funny poems. I enjoyed making people laugh and getting praise for coming up with clever rhymes—mostly in the sing-song rhythms of Dr. Seuss. When I hit adolescence, I switched to introspective material and started hiding what I wrote.

What I most remember about my earliest experiences as a writer was how I got lost in the process and how time got fuzzy around the edges. Like the best forms of play, writing was a world unto itself, a puzzle to be figured out, a mystery to be solved and put down on the page.

I don’t write poetry anymore and haven’t since I was a teenager in Oklahoma, but I still feel most at home when I get absorbed in a writing project. It’s a special form of magic.

Describe the creative process involved in any one piece you’ve written—this could be book, a story, a poem, an essay, etc.

Much of my writing has involved research and critical thinking. Almost every piece starts the same way. I get obsessed by an idea or a question—from a conversation, a news item, a book, a TV show, or just something I see out of the corner of my eye—and I have to figure out how the pieces fit together to make some sort of sense. If I’m lucky, at some point in the process, I know exactly what I’m doing, and the words make their way to my fingertips on the keyboard or to the end of my pen. Usually, I have to sit with a piece for a while before I get immersed and find flow. Whether I’m writing a script, a narrative, or a critical essay, the writing only gets good when that fuzzy sense of time sets in. Creativity requires a state of grace—and it comes to you with a mandate. When you’re in the creative zone, you find everything you need; and when you leave it, you know you have to get back there again.

Could you describe your relationship to the publishing process (this can be publishing in any form, from traditional book publishing to blogging, etc)

From my earliest days as a writer of silly poems, I recognized that sharing what you’ve written can be both exhilarating and agonizing. When I’m writing I can’t think about what anyone else will think about my work or I get stuck. Once a piece is published, in whatever form, it’s out there on its own and a part of me goes with it. The level of exposure is intense, and the outcomes can be mixed. I’m miserable when something I write doesn’t get noticed. I’m happy when I hear from someone who has read my work, especially things from a while back—and even more so when the person has good things to say about it!

Because the blogosphere moves so quickly, I usually feel a rush when something I’ve written goes live. This energy lasts for a day or so as I keep checking back to see if anyone has commented or left feedback (I’m sure I’ll do that with this!), and my mood goes up and down, depending on what I see. With print books and articles, the process gets stretched out over time, but it’s pretty much the same emotional ride.

How has being a writer affected your relationships?

My wife, Cheryl, is extremely patient with my writing habits. I have to get up really early if I want to find my way to the creative zone, and when she wakes up, I’m either high or low, depending on how the writing has gone. Neither state is particularly pleasant for someone who’s looking for her first cup of coffee. She’s also extremely good about reading my work and dealing with my initial sensitivity to criticism.

I have several close friends—Eberle being one of my closest!—with whom I trade pages and share work. All of these relationships are deep and special to me. Since writing is something I usually do by myself (in the wee hours of the morning), my writing network makes what I do seem more real.

I’ve been fortunate to be able to collaborate with Eberle, and some of our work has appeared here on RFB. The community John has built here is delightfully supportive—it’s been lovely getting to know all of you—so many cool writers!

What are your future goals in terms of writing?

I’m currently working on an anthology, Here Come the Brides! The Brave New World of Lesbian Marriage with Michele Kort, a senior editor at Ms. magazine. [Here’s a link to our site, currently under construction.] I blog for Ms. and have a couple of pieces coming out in the next issue of the print magazine. I also have  a piece in mind for RFB that I hope to get to one of these days.

I took on a new position at Claremont McKenna College, where I am an associate professor of literature, as the Faculty Director of the Writing Center, so many of my goals are linked to developing a stronger culture of writing at my school and bringing people together to talk about the craft of writing.

Bonus Question: If your writing were a musical instrument, what would it be?

A drum set, of course! I lay down a rhythm and then listen as the melodies gather around.

pic of Audrey in the Writers Talk graphic is by Greg Allen

Happy Birthday (Eve), Audrey Bilger!


OK, so I’m kind of anticipating birthdays again here—but I wanted to give a quick birthday shout-out to Robert Frost’s Banjo’s own SoCal correspondent & more importantly, excellent friend, Audrey Bilger.  Audrey’s frenetic schedule—complete with new admistrative job, book deals & her role on the Ms Magazine Blog—not to mention her usual run of publications (on everything from 18th century literature to comic strips) & activities, have reduced her role here—sad for us, blog-wise, but of course as a friend I’m thrilled by all the great happenings in Audrey’s life these days. 

If you’re new to Robert Frost’s Banjo, I’d encourage you to search the label “Audrey’s Writing.”  Some of Audrey’s posts, like her Lesley Gore interview or her examination of whether “Reformed Rakes” make good husbands have been among the blog’s most popular posts all-time—a day never passes that there aren’t “hits” on many of Audrey's posts.  


But I also have some good news for the near future—you won’t be simply reduced to searching for Audrey’s writing amongst the blog archives, because she’ll be participating in the Writers Talk interview series next Thursday, October 7th.  Mark your calendars & stay tuned, because I know that’s going to be an interview you don’t want to miss.  Audrey is one of the wittiest, smartest & most articulate people I know.

& also a dear friend—so happy birthday, tomorrow, Audrey.  Hope you have a great day, & many, many happy returns!

Intrepid Prop H8 Reporter Audrey Bilger

Happy Thursday afternoon, everyone!  If you’re interested in staying informed on the California Prop H8 decision, you really should stay tuned to our dear friend & sometime collaborator Audrey Bilger over at the Ms blog.  Although this is ancient news by interweb standards, Audrey has recently blogged about the link between Judge Walker’s ruling on the Proposition & how this is furthers the equal status of women—all women, both straight & lesbian—in marriage.  In a fun but informative post yesterday, Audrey compared the Prop H8 ruling to a gothic novel, complete with sinister villains & happy wedding ending.  They’re both must-reads—not just for our LGBT friends but for everyone.

Because, if you also tune in to hear Dr Bilger participate in a roundtable discussion on PRI’s To The Point program, you’ll find out from the pro-Prop H8 speakers that Prop H8 really isn’t so much about gay couples as about straight ones.  Seems like us straight folks might forget to have children if gay marriage is legal.  Dr Bilger, Slate’s Dahlia Lithwick & Jonathan Rauch of the Brookings Institute provide voices of sanity to these & similar arguments—including the statement by William May, Chairman of Catholics for the Common Good that essentially links feminism to the downfall of civilization as we know it.   Brian Brown, Executive Director of the National Organization for Marriage also speaks in support of Prop H8 & decries Judge walker’s ruling.

Please give Audrey’s informative posts a read (here & here) & give the discussion (which starts about 7:40 into the overall program) a listen!  & have a great day.





Update: this afternoon, Audrey posted about Judge Walker's decision today to lift the stay on gay marriages in California as of next Wednesday, August 18th.  You can read Audrey's latest post here.

A Blow Against H8

Hello folks!  I'm happy to announce - in case you don't know this from any other source - that Federal District Judge Vaughn Walker today overturned California's heinous Proposition 8, AKA Prop H8.  Please check out our dear friend & colleague Audrey Bilger, who also blogs for Ms.  Audrey's post on the ruling is right here.  To anticipate just a tad, part of Judge Walker's ruling reads as follows:

Proposition 8 fails to advance any rational basis in singling out gay men and lesbians for denial of a marriage license. Indeed, the evidence shows Proposition 8 does nothing more than enshrine in the California Constitution the notion that opposite-sex couples are superior to same-sex couples. Because California has no interest in discriminating against gay men and lesbians, and because Proposition 8 prevents California from fulfilling its constitutional obligation to provide marriages on an equal basis,the court concludes that Proposition 8 is unconstitutional.
Although Robert Frost's Banjo only occasionally ventures into the political arena, I've made my opinions about Proposition 8 - & by extension, similar measures in other states - clear on this blog since its early days in 2008.


But enough from me - head on over to Audrey's space at MsDon't miss it!

FEMINIST HULK SMASH!!!



What do Marvel Comics & feminist theorist Judith Butler have in common? Quite a bit if you're one of the 11,641 (& counting) who follow Twitter phenomenon Feminist Hulk! If you’re not aware of the Feminist Hulk, you should most definitely check out our own SoCal Special Correspondent, Audrey Bilger over at the Ms. Magazine Blog where she presides these days—her post today is an exclusive interview with Feminist Hulk!

Smash patriarchal hegemony—oh my!

National Day of Silence


Happy Friday, folks. I wanted to take a moment to draw your attention to Audrey's latest post on the Ms Blog: the post is titled "“Day of Silence” Protests Anti-LGBT Bullying." As Audrey's post explains:

On April 16, hundreds of thousands will choose silence as a way to “speak out” for a good cause. Around the country, students from middle schools, junior highs, high schools, colleges and universities will take part in the 15th Annual Day of Silence, sponsored by the Gay, Lesbian and Straight Education Network (GLSEN). By remaining silent for all or part of the day, participating students will symbolically call attention to the silence surrounding anti-LGBT bullying and harassment in schools.

The rhetoric of anger & intolerance is most certainly heating up in this country, & the atmosphere it creates brings with it a sense of foreboding. Perhaps if young people can find a way toward more tolerance & acceptance, we can have some hope for a future where anger & hatred aren't the national political norm. It will be a long struggle to reach a tolerable level of live & let live. William S. Burroughs once characterized the U.S. as a country "where nobody minds their own business." This characteristic hasn't diminished in the years since Burroughs made that statement.

To my mind, the national mood of intolerance & the phenomenon of schoolhouse bullying about sexual orientation are cut from the same cloth. It should be noted also that such bullying often expands it field to include all sorts of "otherness." On the National Day of Silence website, there's a story about an 11-year-old boy who took his own life after being harrassed about his sexual orientation despite the fact that he didn't identify himself as gay. An isolated incident? I don't know from statistics, but I can tell you I suffered the same harrassment - both verbal & physical - in grade school & early high school years & I myself am straight. But I didn't fit the "mold." So this Day of Silence is about accepting our brothers & sisters who are gay, but it's also about accepting those who don't "fit."

One small thing we can do is spread the word. If you're on Twitter, please consider tweeting a link to Audrey's Ms. Blog piece and start your tweet #ff @dayofsilence. It would be great if the National Day of Silence could be #1 on Twitter's "follow Friday." Why would this be important? Anyone who watches or listens to any form of news in this country knows that politicians are mad for statistics. A show of support for the National Day of Silence on Twitter would send a message.

Thanks for your time!


What Do Ms. & Robert Frost's Banjo Have in Common?


Bet I stumped you there! Answer: Our dear friend & SoCal correspondent Audrey Bilger is also writing for Ms online! Check her out right here!


Hi Audrey! Thinking of you on the road & congrats on your new gig!


Inside the Lady’s Dressing Room (part 2)

Here's the conclusion of Audrey's examination of cosmetics & fashions in the 18th & 19th centuries. Enjoy!]

At the end of the 18th century in England and the newly formed United States, artificiality fell out of favor. We might point to the perceived frivolity of Marie-Antoinette, which (among other things) so incensed the citizenry of France that they rose up against the upper classes and in so doing helped to inspire Americans to shake off the fetters of English rule. Excessive display was out. Simplicity was in. The change was most drastic in men’s clothing. No longer were ruffles, powdered wigs, and other such fripperies viewed as acceptable menswear. Women began to wear less powder and paint, and numerous writers advocated moderate exercise and a healthy diet as the pathway to beauty.

Did this mean that women stopped spending so much time at
their dressing tables? It would be nice to think so, if only because of the fault-finding that goes on there. Augusta Webster’s “By the Looking Glass” (1866) poignantly depicts one young woman’s insecurity over her appearance. After returning form a dance, she faces herself in the mirror, and frets that “her heart must starve” because she is too plain to attract a suitor.

A girl, and so plain a face!
Once more, as I learn by heart every line
In the pitiless mirror, night by night,
Let me try to think it is not my own.
Come, stranger with features something like mine,
Let me place close by you the tell-tale light;
Can I find in you now some charm unknown,
Only one softening grace?

Alas! it is I, I, I,
Ungainly, common….

Such a frank appraisal of deficiencies is heartbreakingly authentic. One wants to take the young girl’s hand and tell her that looks aren’t everything.

Less fortunate still might be the dressing table’s attendant, the lady’s maid. Isabella Beeton, in
her guide to everything, the Book of Household Management, says of this servant, “the lady’s-maid has to originate many parts of the mistress’s dress herself: she should, indeed, be a tolerably expert milliner and dressmaker, a good hairdresser, and possess some chemical knowledge of the cosmetics with which the toilet-table is supplied, in order to use them with safety and effect.” Although Isabella deems the duties of the lady’s maid to be “light and easy”—in comparison, no doubt, to the more onerous work of other household servants—because of the intimacy of the position, she would have little time for leisure. Dusting bonnets, cleaning shoes, laying out clothes, lighting fires to warm her mistress, cleaning and sweeping the dressing and bed rooms, packing for trips, being constantly on call—such tasks were all to be performed quietly and unobtrusively. Ever the recipe-collector, Isabella provides instructions to the lady’s maid for making solvents to clean brushes, shoe polishes, hair washes, and the following “Pomade for the Hair.”

INGREDIENTS - 1/4 lb. of lard, 2 pennyworth of castor-oil; scent.

Mode.—Let the lard be unsalted; beat it up well; then add the castor-oil, and mix thoroughly together with a knife, adding a few drops of any scent that may be preferred. Put the pomatum into pots, which keep well covered to prevent it turning rancid.

The ideal lady’s-maid, says Isabella, would take classes to learn to style hair according to the
latest trends, study fashion magazines to keep her mistress’s wardrobe up to date, and always be thinking of ways to make things better for her employer.

She will also, if she has her mistress’s interest at heart, employ her spare time in repairing and making up dresses which have served one purpose, to serve another also, or turning many things, unfitted for her mistress to use, for the younger branches of the family. The lady’s-maid may thus render herself invaluable to her mistress, and increase her own happiness in so doing.

So much for spare time! More than her mistress, the lady’s maid was a slave to fashion.

A Miss M. H. Butt, writing in Godey’s Lady’s Book in April of 1854 presents beauty as an equal-opportunity trait, one that came more from within than without.

Whether she be in the lofty or lowly walks of life, if she possess certain mental qualifications and traits of character, she is beautiful. Her beauty does not consist alone in the bright flashing eye, which seems to speak the sentiments of her heart; it depends not upon the graceful form or gorgeous equipage; it is her mind, well cultivated and endowed with all those intellectual qualifications, which will make her a brilliant star, and which will enable her to enlighten those with whom she may become conversant....Yes, woman is truly beautiful; she is earth's greatest ornament; of her too much cannot be said. In whatever light we view her, she is lovely.

Such sentiments, no doubt, encouraged many a young woman to develop her mind!

In closing: Frances Sargent Osgood's
“Flattery. Venus’s Looking-Glass” (1864)

Beautiful? yes! Those deep-blue eyes
On heaven have gazed, till they caught its dyes;
Thou hast been seeking the rose, to sip
Its dewy bloom for thy balmy lip;
Thou hast been out in the radiant air,
Wooing the sun with thy wavy hair;
For a rich gleam breaks through its braids of brown,
Like a smile from Day's bright Eye sent down;
Beautiful? yes! but the rose will fade;
The smile grow dim which the bright eyes wear;
The gloss will vanish from curl and braid,
And the sunbeam die in the drooping hair!
Turn from the mirror! and strive to win
Treasures of loveliness still to last;
Gather earth's glory and bloom within !
They will be thine when youth is past.
Audrey Bilger, © 2007-2009

Pix from Top
Madame Seriziat: Jacques Louis Davis, 1795
Title page from Beeton's
Book of Household Management
Fashion plate of English and French costumes for 1815
Godey's Lady's Book, 1867






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Inside the Lady’s Dressing Room (part 1)

[What follows is the first installment in a two-part post of Audrey's, again examining the history of cosmetics; part two will appear next Thursday. I'm sure you'll enjoy reading this fascinating look into social history]

[B]ut ladies, the hour appropriated to the adornment of our persons draws near, and I shall request the favour of this young lady to accompany me to the temple of the graces, or, in other words, the toilet. (Elizabeth Griffin, The Double Mistake, 1766)
If we could step back in time and take a seat at a lady’s dressing table in 1700s England, we would recognize many of the items laid out before us. Here, a brightly colored scent bottle; there, a jewel-encrusted powder box; an assortment of make-up containers, compacts, brushes, and combs arranged for easy access. But there would also be much to marvel at, and portraits of women from this period make clear that beauty could take a great deal of work.

Artifice was the order of the day for upper-class women through much of the 18th century. Not
only did stylish ladies frequently whiten and varnish their faces, they might also stuff their cheeks with round balls, called “plumpers” to add fullness. In “An Inventory of a Lady’s Dressing Room,” Elizabeth Thomas disparages women who “nightly traps insidious lay, / To catch new eye-brows for the day,” referring to the practice of attaching false eyebrows made of mouse fur (The Metamorphoses of the Town: or, a View of the Present Fashions, 1754 [posthumously published volume, 4th edition]). A truly fashionable face would be covered with patches, also referred to as mouches (French for “flies”), pieces of cloth, typically velvet, satin, or tafetta, or thin leather, cut into a variety of shapes and sizes. The woman so ornamented could carry a patch box along with her to replace any that came off or to put on new ones as the spirit moved her.

In many ways, the mouches or patches were like early versions of temporary tattoos. Although
some might be as dainty as a faux mole, larger, more dramatic shapes were quite popular in the 17th and 18th centuries. Geometric shapes, such as circles, stars and diamonds were favorites, as were crescent moons and hearts. A stylish lady might wear five or six of these at once! In the seventeenth century, a fashionable patch to be worn on the forehead was a silhouette of a coach and horses. In the early 18th century, English women sported patches to identify their political affiliations as Whigs or Tories. Less fancifully—or politically—patches might cover blemishes or small pox scars.

Red lips, flushed cheeks, and dramatic hairstyles polished off the look. Small wonder that a character in Hannah Cowley’s Belle’s Stratagem (1780) would quip, “A lady at her toilet is as difficult to be moved as a Quaker.” In the 1770s, hairstyles might include wire frames to lift the coiffure to outrageous heights. Frances Burney’s Evelina, freshly arrived from the country to London, can’t get over her elaborately styled hair.

I have just had my hair dressed. You can't think how oddly my head feels; full of powder and black pins, and a great cushion on the top of it. I believe you would hardly know me, for my face looks quite different to what it did before my hair was dressed. When I shall be able to make use of a comb for myself I cannot tell, for my hair is so much entangled, frizled they call it, that I fear it will be very difficult. (Evelina, 1778)
Feathers, beads, and other fanciful elements might decorate this type of hairdo. Some styles
were reportedly so high that women had trouble going through doorways; there were also reports of women whose hair caught on fire from the candles of chandeliers.

Although moralists frequently attacked the use of cosmetics, the very existence of rants against female vanity, such as Jonathan Swift’s “Ladies Dressing Room” (1732) indicates that many women took pleasure in enhancing the features nature gave them. The “mysteries of the toilette,” as they were so often termed, included a variety of surprising elements. Pigeon’s wings, pig’s jawbones, human urine, and boiled puppies—unsavory as they sound, these were all ingredients found in early beauty treatments. Lead, mercury, and arsenic were also enlisted to whiten the skin and redden the cheeks.

A cosmetics recipe book from the period, The Toilet of Flora (1775),
paints a vivid picture of beauty aspirations on its title page: "A Collection of the Most Simple and Approved Methods of Preparing Baths, Essences, Pomatums, Powders, Perfumes, Sweet-Scented Waters, and Opiates for preserving and whitening the Teeth, &c. &c With Receipts for Cosmetics of every Kind that can smooth and brighten the Skin, give Force to Beauty, and take off the Appearance of Old Age and Decay. For the Use of the Ladies." This book advertises itself as a sort of public service for women, whose appearance, according to the author should be taken quite seriously:

The chief Intention of this Performance is to point out, and explain to the Fair-Sex, the Methods by which they may preserve and add to their Charms; and by which many natural Blemishes and Imperfections may be remedied or concealed. The same Share of Grace and Attractions is not possessed by all of them; but while the Improvement of their Persons is the indispensable Duty of those who have been little favoured by Nature, it should not be neglected even by the few who have receive the largest Proportion of Gifts. The same Art which will communicate to the former the Power of Pleasing, will enable the latter to extend the Empire of their Beauty. It is possible to remove, or, at least, to cover the Defects of the one Class, and to give Force and Lustre to the Perfections of the other.

The Toilet of Flora offers instructions for making "A Fluid to die the Hair of a flaxen Colour," as
well as numerous beauty waters with formidable names such as "The Celestial Water," "Imperial Water," "Angelic Water," and "The Divine Cordial." Such waters claimed to remove wrinkles, clear skin, "preserve the Complexion," and, for what one might hope were extreme cases, "remove Worms in the Face." There are recipes for salves, pomatums, cold creams, balms, soaps, perfumes, and rouges.

"A Liquid Rouge that exactly imitates Nature" is a mixture of brandy, gum benzoin, red sandalwood, brazil wood (commonly used as a scarlet dye), alum. The infusion must be shaken daily for twelve days, after which it will yield miraculous results: "Lightly touch the cheeks with this Tincture, and it will scarcely be possible to perceive that rouge has been laid on, it will so nearly resemble the natural bloom.”

POSTSCRIPT: Dying for Beauty
The story of Maria Gunning and her sister Elizabeth starts off like a fairy tale and ends with a
bleak cautionary message. These mid-18th-century sisters were famous for being great beauties—the “Fair Gunnings,” they were called--but they came from an Irish country family whose funds were limited, and so their parents sent them off to Dublin to seek their fortunes. Here they were befriended by theatre folk, who dressed them up to attend a social function at Dublin Castle, where they were so celebrated, that they were encouraged to go to London. Crowds gathered to look at them, so fair they were. Author Horace Walpole, writing in June of 1751, said that they were “declared the handsomest women alive.”

Elizabeth made the first conquest eight months after their arrival. James, the Sixth Duke of Hamilton, was so enchanted by her looks when he saw her at a party in 1752, that he married her on the spot. Three weeks later, Maria was wed to George William, Earl of Coventry. Lady Coventry continued to be mobbed by crowds wherever she went, so much so that the King himself assigned soldiers to guard her, something that no doubt only served to draw more attention to her. She triumphed in this manner for almost a decade, but her life was cut short at the age of twenty-seven because of her over-reliance on powder and paint. She contracted blood poisoning and her face was ravaged. She allegedly spent her last days in a darkened room, holding a pocket mirror, and despairing over the loss of her famed beauty. When she died in 1760, over ten thousand people came to view her in her coffin.

Pix from Top
English Satinwood Dressing Table:
Illustrated History of Furniture, From the Earliest to the Present Time from 1893
(Litchfield)
boîte à mouches ou tabatière (box for face patches): from Musée de la faïence à Marseille; photo is by Robert Valette, who has published it at Wiki Commons under a GNU Free Documentation License
Les mouches sous Louis XIV (face patches from the time of Louis XIV): from L'Art et les artifices de la beauté, Octave Uzanne
Robe a la polonaise: 1770s engraving
An illustration from
The Toilet of Flora
Title page from The Toilet of Flora
Maria Gunning: from Some Old Time Beauties After Portraits by the English Masters, with Embellishment and Comment, Thomson Willing (1895)






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Mirror, Mirror

[Here Audrey continues her consideration of the "beauty" industry. Enjoy]

Everyone knows the story of the wicked queen whose looking glass turns against her. In “Snow White,” the older woman and fair young maiden face off in a high-stakes beauty contest to win the title, “fairest of us all.” Our sympathies lie with the innocent victim—she can’t help being beautiful, after all, (and she doesn’t seem to even own a mirror!)—but it’s the quee
n who engages our deepest fears.

In cultures that revere youthful beauty, aging is a one-way street to female obsolescence. Girls may see themselves in Snow White, oppressed by their evil (step) mothers, but women of a certain age understand why the queen’s daily mirror-gazing could drive her crazy. She appears to have all of the power, with her henchmen and magic tricks, but her naive adversary, even laid out dead in the glass coffin, gets all the attention.

Snow White, like most heroines in 18th and 19th century literature, is forever young. Ages 17 to
25 are the golden years. After that, the bloom fades, the roses wither.

Long before the cosmetics industry coined the word “anti-aging” as a way to sell illusions of a fountain of youth, numerous recipes and treatments promised to make the signs of aging--gray hair, wrinkles, and sagging skin—go away. Maybe because such recipes seek to turn back time and reverse the order of nature, their directions often sound like witchcraft. Consider the ritual described in "A Secret to take away Wrinkles":

Heat an Iron Shovel red hot, throw theron some Powder of Myrrh, receive the smoke on your face, covering the head with a napkin to collect the smoke, and prevent its being dissipated. Repeat this operation three times, then heat the Shovel again, and when fiery hot spirt [i.e., spit] on it a mouthful of White Wine. Receive the vapour of the Wine also on your face, and repeat it three times. Continue this proceeding every night and morning as long as you find occasion. Toilet of Flora

The idea that the person who tries this procedure might cease to “find occasion” for eliminating
wrinkles is provocative but unexplored! Would the wrinkles stay gone, one wonders, or would the woman simply decide that she no longer wanted to go through with all this?

“Wrinkles…What an ugly word!” exclaims the author of an 1889 English book entitled Beauty and How to Keep It, “And to think that they must come, sooner or later; but let us try to make it as late as possible. The least vain, the most reasonable of women, cannot but be unhappy when she sees the first wrinkle on her face.” This self-described “professional beauty,” offers a recipe for “wrinkle lotion” that consists of tannin, rose water, and glycerin: "This should be painted on with a fine camels' hair brush; the result is wonderful. If constantly used, wrinkles must disappear.” In spite of the certainty of this assertion, she goes on to recommend an additional way to eliminate the dreaded marks of age: “Another plan is to massĂ© the skin with the fingers; this can be one several times during the day, and will tend to cause absorption of superfluous fat, and improve the tone of the muscles.”

Jane Austen’s vain Sir Walter Elliot not only approves of make-up, he thinks it should be
required for women of a certain age. Commenting on family friend Lady Russell, “Morning visits are never fair by women at her time of life, who make themselves up so little. If she would only wear rouge, she would not be afraid of being seen…”

18th century poet Anne Finch presents a candid snapshot of a woman at her mirror, stoically considering the loss of her youth. Clarinda asks of beauty, “What have you ever done for me?” As the poem makes clear it’s at best a passive virtue and at worst an unreliable and transient base of power. Clarinda stands up to those who would define her by this one quality, and in so doing, she sets an inspirational example for other women—and men (in our increasingly looks-obsessed world)--to follow.

“Clarinda’s Indifference at Parting with her Beauty”

Now, age come on, and all the dismal traine
That fright the vitious, and afllicte the vaine.
Departing beauty, now Clarinda spies
Pale in her cheeks, and dying in her eyes;
That youthful air, that wanders ore the face,
That undescrib’d, and unresisted grace,
Those morning beams, that strongly warm and shine,
Which men that feel and see, can ne’re define,
Now, on the wings of restlesse time, were fled,
And ev’ning shades, begin to rise, and spread,
When thus resolved, and ready soon to part,
Slighting the short reprieves of proffer’d art
She spake—
And what, vain beauty, didst thou ‘ere atchieve,
When at thy height, that I thy fall shou’d greive,
When, didst thou e’re successfully persue?
When, did’st thou e’re th’ appointed foe pursue?
‘Tis vain of numbers, or of strength to boast,
In an undisciplined, unguided Host,
And love, that did thy mighty hopes deride,
Wou’d pay no sacrafice, but to thy pride.
When, did’st thou e’re a pleasing rule obtain,
A glorious Empire’s but a glorious pain,
Thou, art indeed, but vanity’s cheife sourse,
But foyle to witt, to want of witt a curse,
For often, by thy gaudy sign’s descry’d
A fool, which unobserved, had been untry’d,
And when thou doest such empty things adorn,
‘Tis but to make them more the publick scorn.
I know thee well, but weak thy reign wou’d be
Did n’one adore, or prize thee more then me.
I see indeed, thy certain ruine neer,
But can’t affoard one parting sigh, or tear,
Nor rail at Time, nor quarrel with my glass,
But unconcern’d can lett thy glories passĂ©.

essay by Audrey Bilger © 2007-2009

Pix from top
Illustration from an 1852 Icelandic edition of Snow White
1877 Etching by Hermann Eichens with the pungent title: "Serai-je assez belle ?" ("Will I be pretty enough?")
An 1886 "Beauty Box"
1625 painting titled
Die eitle Alte, by Bernardo Strozzi - sorry, I can't find a translation for the title.







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White Teeth! Fresh Breath! 10 (Truly) Old School Beauty Tips

[Audrey's back again, this time with some 17th century beauty tips! Enjoy.]

Long before drug store aisles were lined with creams, potions, and miraculous lotions, women invented their own beauty treatments and shared their favorites among close friends. Seventeenth-century writer Hannah Wolley, author of at least seven books on cookery, etiquette, and medicine, included recipes to address common cosmetic concerns of the day. Her tips range from the plausible to the grotesque.

The promises sound familiar, and when you consider the things modern women do for looks—chemical peels, bleaching trays, injections—the ingredients may not seem so bizarre. Although not for the squeamish, their organic credentials are ind
isputable. Do they work? Probably about as well as many of the claims we fall for today!

1. To make the Hair grow thick: Make a strong Lye, then take a good quantity of Hyssop-Roots, and burn them to Ashes, and mingle the Ashes and the Lye together, and therewith wash your Head, and it will make the Hair grow; the Ashes of Froggs burnt doth increase Hair, as also the Ashes of Goats-dung, mingled with Oyl.

2. A Water to take away wrinkles in the Face: Take of the Decoction of Briony and Figgs, each alike quantities and wash the Face with it.

3. To take away
Hair: Take the Juice of Fumitory, mix it with Gum-Arabick, then lay it on the place, the Hairs first plucked out by the Roots, and it will never permit any more Hair to grow on the place: Also annoint your Head with the juice of a Glo-worm stamped and it hath the same Virtue.

4. To take away Freckles in the Face: Annoint your face with oyl of Almonds and drink Plantain-water, or annoint your Visage well and often with Hare's blood.

5. To take away Pimples: Take Wheat-flower mingled with Honey and Vinegar, and lay it upon them.

6. To make the teeth white as Ivory: Take Rosemary, Sage, and a little Almond and Honey, and boyl them together in fair Running-water, and when it is well boyled, strain out the fair water, and keep it in a Glass, and use it sometime to wash your Mouth and Teeth therewith, and it will make them clean.

7. To make the Breath Sweet: Wash your Mouth with the water that the shells of Citrons have been boyled in, and you will have a sweet Breath.

8. To make the Nails grow: Take Wheat-flower, and mingle it with Honey, and lay it to the Nails, and it will help them.

9. For the Lips chopt [chapped]: Rub them with the Sweat behind your Ears, and this will make them smooth and well coloured.

10. To smooth the skin: Mix Capons-grease with a quantity of Sugar, and let it stand for a few days close covered, and it will turn to clear oyl with which to annoint your face.

Hannah Wolley, The Accomplish’t Lady’s Delight in Preserving, Physick, Beautifying & Cookery (1675)

Audrey Bilger © 2007-2009

Pix from Top
Hannah Wolley
Male & Female Glowworms
A Black Java Rooster (probably not "caponized," but you get the idea)

I Was a Preteen Bubblegum Queen!

[Betcha never thought you'd se the name Miley Cyrus on Robert Frost's Banjo! Check out Audrey's rollicking account of her early life as a bubblegum queen! Be sure to stick around to watch Audrey's hand-picked bubblegum vids, too.]

Virtually every significant romance in my life has revolved around music. My first boyfriend was a singer/songwriter, my first girlfriend was in a band with me, and my wife rocks my world on a daily basis (they were/are all guitar-players, but I’m sure that’s beside the point!). Each relationship has had its soundtrack, the sharing of tunes, and much musical exploration.

But my earliest loves were those bubblegum boys with their bright pop melodies, who made me long for who knows what when I was seven-to-twelve years old. At that time, in the 1960s, there was no shortage of amazing music on the radio and in the air. You could turn on a local station and hear Bob Dylan, The Beatles, and The Stones side by side with Frank Sina
tra, Dusty Springfield, and Tom Jones, followed perhaps by Jackie Wilson, Marvin Gaye, and The Supremes.

The Beatles were a band my older cousins listened to, and I really dug their songs. I twirled my
hips as a toddler to “Twist & Shout,” and at four, I could sing along to “She Loves You” (I liked the “yeah, yeah yeah” part). Even as a kid, though, I felt that there was something edgy and adult about their material. I couldn’t believe they were singing to me, and images of Beatlemania on TV were worrisome. Why were those girls screaming? Bands like The Doors actually scared me, with their moody organ riffs and sensual vocals. “Riders On The Storm” seemed to come into my head whenever my family was on a camping trip. I’d worry about that “killer on the road,” whose brain was “squirming like a toad.” I think the lines, “Take a long holiday/Let your children play” that followed must have fused the idea of camping and this psychopath in my mind, and Jim Morrison sounded like he sided with the bad guys. Don’t even get me started on “Paint It Black”!

I can’t remember when I first heard Davy Jones singing “Daydream Believer,” but I know that
by second grade, I was a dedicated Monkees follower. I watched the show—even though I had no idea what those madcap fellows were up to. Innuendos, drug references, criticism of the Vietnam War—I couldn’t have cared less. I just wanted to hear that soft English accent and get to the part where they played a song. I’d shut myself up in my bedroom and play their music on my portable turntable with its lift-up lid and pull-out speakers. I’d stare at their pictures on the record covers. I’d even make up scenarios in which I was included in those tangled story lines. Even though I now know many devoted Monkees admirers (and am even friends with the person who wrote the definitive day-by history of the band, which you can check out here), I have to confess that in my single-digit years, I never questioned whether they were real artists or not, all I wanted was more of those sugary pop songs.

In 1968, I discovered Bobby Sherman on the TV show Here Come The Brides, and later I
swooned over his hit “Julie, Do Ya Love Me?” He wasn’t as deep a crush as Davy Jones had been, and I’d like to think this had something to do with their relative merits, but that’s definitely my adult self talking (and I know there are those out there who would fight me on this). When I looked this song up on YouTube to refresh my memory, I couldn’t quite believe that this sort of song appealed to a fourth-grader. It sounds incredibly schmaltzy and like it’s aimed at bored middle-aged housewives, so I’m just guessing there must have been a crossover audience. Suffice it to say, this infatuation faded fast.

1970 was also the year that launched another TV music sensation,
and this time I was the perfect age for the both the show and its tunes. By the end of the year I turned ten, “I Think I Love You” by The Partridge Family was at the top of the charts, and I was, to put it mildly, obsessed. For two years I practically embraced the television set on Friday nights. David Cassidy was dreamy. Those eyes! That smile! The shag haircut! I wore out their records. I studied the lyrics. Every word was, I felt in the deepest fiber of my being, meant for me. I read in Tiger Beat that David was moody, and I took that to mean he was thoughtful and sensitive (I wouldn’t have thought then that moody meant he didn’t want ten-year old girls to be his major fan base, but apparently that was closer to the truth).

I don’t remember how I fell out of love with David. I
only know that when, for my 12th birthday, my parents gave me a life-sized poster of him, I felt awkward and embarrassed by it. I’d moved on by then. The last of my bubblegum crushes was already underway. Donny Osmond’s “Puppy Love” had set my heart pounding. Like my former idols, he was soft-featured and sweet-voiced (effeminate?). I resented my mom’s references to the Annette Funicello version that, coincidentally, charted the year I was born. That was then, Donny was now. Not yet there myself, I nonetheless felt the pain of being mocked, as the song put it, “just because we’re in our teens.”

Times had changed for me by this point, though
. I didn’t obsess over Donny. Maybe I recognized that the magic window was closing. What might at first have seemed like an advantage—he was only a few years older than me—was actually a liability. In retrospect, I think I could see him more clearly as not fully genuine. By 1972 I was listening to The Carpenters, Elton John, Neil Diamond, and even Janis Joplin. I made mix tapes off the radio with songs like Melanie’s “Brand New Key,” Three Dog Night’s “Joy To the World,” and Paul Simon’s “Me And Julio Down By the Schoolyard.” I started actively working to cultivate taste and became acutely aware of what was considered cool and what wasn’t.

In spite of the four decades that have passed since I last gave my heart to a teen idol, I still can’t resist a strong melody, a solid hook, and soulful pop vocals. Long before the Spice Girls co-opted girl power as a PR slogan, at a time when the real teens were turning on and tuning out, female preteens became a powerful force to be reckoned with. Speaking as one of those girls grown up—and this probably holds true for those who love Miley Cyrus and, you know, whoever else it is that kids listen to these days—bubblegum introduced me to the basic way music can move and validate you. Rather than feeling embarrassed by my early addiction to silly love songs, I like now to think back to when I danced around my room with the volume up high, singing at the top of my lungs, my heart an open book and my spinning turntable the center of the universe. To blow another bubble from those bygone days, “Sugar…Oh, honey, honey”!

© Audrey Bilger 2009


This doesn’t do justice to the truly lovely production quality of the album version, but it’s the only clip I could find that shows young Davy performing it.




They seem to be at a feminist rally in this clip from the show, check out the POWER OF WOMEN sign over the stage.



Meet Star & Micey

[Check out Audrey's latest foray, this time into another of her great passions: pop music! Many thanks to Audrey, & also to Joseph Davis of Ardent Studios for asking Robert Frost's Banjo to review Star & Micey!]

Up to this point my appearances on RFB have primarily focused on early women writers. Today, in keeping with the miscellany spirit of this remarkable blog, I’m writing from a different place altogether—as a huge fan a
nd voracious consumer of pop music. When I was a graduate student at the University of Virginia—where I met John and Eberle for the first time—I DJ-ed at the UVA radio station, WTJU (get it? “TJ” for Thomas Jefferson). There, I got to spin actual vinyl records in the mid-1980s until we were forced to transition to CDs as the decade wore on (not as good for those slick segues). I used to troll through the current bin, checking out the latest treasures and oddities that appeared during that golden age when college radio prided itself on “breaking” bands like Camper Van Beethoven, R.E.M., and Nirvana, to name a few. These days I mostly play music to please myself, and I have a customized current bin. My wife, Cheryl—record collector extraordinaire, label executive, and star producer—picks out whatever new things she thinks might appeal to me and leaves them in a box for me to listen to at my leisure. I keep my ears open and love to hear whatever comes my way.

So when John invited me to write about the debut record of Memphis-based band Star & Micey, I checked out a few sample tracks and jumped at the opportunity. They made it onto the RFB radar because of the piece John wrote on the Big Star boxed set last month. Like Big Star, the group Star & Micey belon
gs to the legendary world of Ardent. They recorded the album at Ardent Studios, and they’re signed to Ardent Music, who will be releasing their album tomorrow.

In their bio, Star & Micey memorialize the event that gave them their quirky-so
unding name—an encounter between the band’s founder, Joshua Cosby, and a homeless man named Star who had written a song about his ex-wife Micey. The true origin of this record, however, is another even more fortuitous meeting between Cosby and Ardent engineer Nick Redmond. Redmond caught Cosby’s performance at an open-mic night and liked what he heard so much that he joined forces as Star & Micey’s lead guitarist and brought the group to Ardent. Geoff Smith is the third core member of the group, playing bass and percussion on the new record.

Ardent Studios have a reputation not only for state-of-the-art recording facilities and equipment, they’re also renowned for nurturing talented musicians. From what the members of Star & Micey have to say about their experience there in interviews, t
hey benefited greatly from that tradition. Crosby calls their recording sessions “a dream come true” and says that working there, “you feel like a kid, you feel like you can do anything.” As you can see from their pictures and in the interviews, these guys are young and brimming with optimism, and that’s what makes their gorgeously produced album such a fresh surprise. It has an old school sound and vibe with a 21st-century alt-folk-rock sensibility.

On the self-titled record, Star & Micey sound like they’re having a great ti
me. They lead off with a swampy, southern-rock flavored track, “Salvation Army Clothes,” a reproach to someone who’s made a habit of casting off “all the good people” and is about to do it again. From there, they move into a cheerful old-time gospel praise track, incongruously titled “So Much Pain.” Although songwriter/lead vocalist Joshua Cosby sings about how much grief he has caused those he loves, the tone is relentlessly perky because it’s ultimately a tune about forgiveness and transcending the pain one has caused, concluding with the simply expressed lines:

I just feel so grateful,
I just feel so gratefu
l,
I just feel so grateful
About everything.

The tracks that follow are unified by Crosby’s smooth, confiding vocals, which are nicely complemented by harmonies from Smith and by flawless arrangements. Guest musicians include Jody Stephens, the drummer from Big Star (and Ardent studio manager), on “Nelson” and Luther Dickinson, of The North Mississippi Allstars and The Black Crowes, on “So Much Pain.”

One of my favorite songs on
the album, “My Beginning,” has a sweet soul flavor and congeniality that typifies this band’s overall personality. They’ve been sporadically keeping a blog of their current tour at starandmicey.com, and if you read some of their entries, you can tell they’re having a blast out on the road. They write about playing house parties, busking in front of fraternity houses, and getting invited home by kind folks for tasty meals and places to stay.

After spending some time getting to know this band, I found myself rooting for them to do well. If these guys come to your town, go see them. And if they need a place to stay, let them sleep on your couch!














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The Jane Austen Reading Group

[In which Audrey takes a look at "old school" reading groups & the art of reading aloud. Enjoy!]

When Jane Austen described her family as “great Novel-readers, & not ashamed of being so,” she was referring, in part, to their habit of reading books aloud as a group. Long before radio or TV became the focus of domestic entertainment, families would assemble to share an agreed-upon title.

These were lively gatherings. After supper or on a rainy afternoon, the stories unfolded, one sentence at a time. The best readers knew how to slow down here, pause there, add an expressive inflection, and give characters their proper voices. Books succeeded or failed on the spot. Every word counts when you’re reading out loud.

Fans of book clubs k
now how much fun it is to talk about literature with other people. Reading an entire work out loud with a friend or in a small group is more time-consuming but infinitely more pleasurable than reading in isolation. Everyone is on the same page. Comments and insights arise in real time.

Henry Austen praised his sister’s reading talents. “She read aloud with very great taste and effect. Her o
wn works, probably, were never heard to so much advantage as from her own mouth; for she partook largely in all the best gifts of the comic muse.” Imagine sitting in on a reading session with the Austen family. Jane opens the book and sizes up her audience. “It is a truth,” she begins, perhaps pausing there, so familiar are her listeners with what comes next. We lean forward in our chairs to catch the arched brow, noticing, as Jane wishes us to, how that word truth can be called into question. Mr. and Mrs. Bennet make their entrance, bickering over their daughters’ futures. They’re right here with us. We can’t wait to hear more.

If Jane were the host of your reading group, she might indulge you in a scene or two from one of her novels. She would prob
ably enjoy being treated like a star since she wasn’t accorded that status in her lifetime; however, she would also introduce you to her sister authors toward whom she felt an enormous allegiance and debt.

She would want you to read Frances Burney and would start
you off with Evelina (1778), the book that launched Burney’s career as the most famous novelist at the end of the 18th century. Jane could deliver comic renditions of dialogue from Evelina that sent her listeners into fits of laughter. Evelina, the ingĂ©nue protagonist who doesn’t know the rules of London society, taught Jane a thing or two about putting women at the center of a story, and she would want you to get to know how Burney’s fiction mentored her.

In Jane’s reading group, you would meet Charlotte Lennox’s Female Quixote (1752), the inspiration for Northanger Abbey and Emma. The heroine of this novel, Arabella, is raised in seclusion, and, like the original Quixote, she reads tales of chivalry and confuses them with reality. Arabella thinks that a true hero ought to serve his lady faithfully and perform acts of derring-do in her name for decades before she should even consider giving him her hand. Her fantasies collide comically with the facts of daily life as she struggles to hold her own against the pressures of reality. This book struck such a chord for Austen and her family that they read it no fewer than three times aloud.

Jane would
want you to read Maria Edgeworth’s Belinda (1801), a work that makes clear how hard it is for a young woman to navigate the marriage market without proper guidance and advice. She would recommend Sarah Fielding, Ann Radcliffe, and Elizabeth Inchbald, among others, and perhaps, if she got to know you well enough, she might even suggest that you dip into Mary Wollstonecraft. She could recommend a male writer or two, but she would urge you to pay particular attention to her literary foremothers and sisters, noting that history has not been kind to them, and that they (to paraphrase Virginia Woolf’s argument in A Room of One’s Own) made it possible for her to write.

Shared reading was an important part of the lives of past writers. We know that Jane read sections of her work in progress to family and friends and that she took note of their
responses, with the idea that the novels would be read aloud once published. A niece writes of how Aunt Jane would visit, bringing along her latest manuscript. “She would shut herself up with my elder sisters in one of the bedrooms to read them aloud. I and the younger ones used to hear peals of laughter through the door…” Clearly, Jane liked to make people laugh, and she continues to do so almost two hundred years after her death.

Should you choose to imitate the old-fashioned reading group and gather friends to read aloud, figure that a book the size of Pride and Prejudice will take up six or seven sessions, depending on interruptions, applause, discussion, and digression. Take your time with it, and encourage readers to bring their sections to life and to show off their dramatic skills. One thing that happens when you read out loud is that you end up taking things personally and bringing in your own perspective. “That happened to me,” or “I know someone just like that.” Before you know it, other stories find their way into the room, deepening and enriching relationships, and bringing the book into conversation with the lives of those in the room.

A book is never just a book when you read it out loud. There’s a sense of group ownership and collective experience. One of Jane’s heroines comments, “My idea of good company…is the company of clever, well-informed people, who have a great deal of conversation.” If that’s a view you share, then give the Jane Austen reading group a try. You may never go back to reading alone!

Audrey Bilger © 2007-2009

Pix from Top:
The Travelling Companions: Augustus Leopold Egg
Illustration from the 1833 Bentley edition of Pride & Prejudice
Three-volume early edition of Evelina
Charlotte Lennox
Maria Edgeworth:
Mackenzie, after William Marshall Craig
A Reading:
Thomas Dewing






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